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J Matthes One word that seems to drive fear into the hearts of Armor modelers is Zimmerit. As soon as a Late Tiger comes out, the first reaction is; 'Where's the molded zim?'. The second reaction is impatience for the AM resin sheets. So, why is a modeler, who can normally make a seam invisible, troubled by using the same materials to apply a surface that is intentionally irregular and handmade? Join me and see there is no reason to be intimidated. The ingredients to a pleasant zim experience are simple; an assembled kit, the Tamiya tool and Aves ApoxieSculpt. After some research, you'll soon see a few different patterns, keeping in mind this was applied by hand with great variety. If you are not familiar, I'd suggest you google the famous Wittmann propaganda photograph, he is sitting on a veritable zim document. Here I have the Late DML 3 in 1 kit. After counting the approximate rows of zim in my particular reference source, I have penciled in some lines as a guide. I'm only using this as a rough guide, but feel free to make this as exact as you would like. The Late's centered headlight bracket was also zimmed, so I have it ready to do at the same time.   Here are the Tamiya tool and mixed ApoxieSculpt. I am doing the glacis and hull which is best served with the smaller of the two sizes, .05. As usual, I have mixed too much of the Aves, but I'll have a bit to play with after.   I scoop up some putty and head for the glacis. I feel this method gives you more control than applying a bunch and then using the tool to shape. If you were tiling your bathroon, this would be called 'back buttering'. Since this is not tile, I call it 'applying zim'.   With firm, even pressure, simply pull the tool across the intended span and lift. The key is to leave as little material as possible and still produce the pattern, zimmerit wasn't a thick application, it was just meant to create an irregular surface. Any application that is thick will not appear in scale. After finishing a row, reload the tool with an even covering of putty and repeat. Always repeat. You'll see in the second row, I've missed a spot on the bottom. No worries, just go back with the slimmer tool and reapply. Then continue to the end. Always work from one end or obstruction to the other.     After applying some to the headlight bracket, I jam it in place (remember ApoxieSculpt has great adhesive qualities) and that's it for the glacis for now.    The same is repeated on the lower hull. This was about an hour total (including taking the photos) and the material is setting up, making application a bit difficult. So I'll stop here and apply the hull sides and rear another time. You could easily move onto the turret now, after mixing up some fresh ApoxieSculpt.  Now, I know some are thinking there are missing spots and raised lines between rows. They will be addressed after the ApoxieSculpt hardens, when the raised areas are easy to flick away and repairs to empty spots can be done without disturbing surrounding area (The lower hull is intentional, I want a worn look on this one and it will also be covered with mud in the end). You can also fine tune and carve the lines if you want after drying. You can even remove and redo problem rows or areas. Please note, if you are doing a damaged effect, it would be easier to address it now while still somewhat moist. No need to rush, this will need overnight to completely harden. See, I told you I mixed too much...  There is nothing about this process that isn't reversible. ApoxieSculpt is a non-toxic water based putty, it's not chemically bonding with the styrene ruining your kit. If you don't like the look, scrape it off before it sets and try again. Try to do it before it completely hardens or you'll have a tougher time removing it. Which reminds me, when finished, clean your tools thoroughly (wipe down with a damp paper towel during too) in water, you'll hate yourself if you let it set up on them. 
J Matthes resides in New York where he talks to his dog, but still hasn't gotten a good answer.  copyright©2006 ausfwerks |